next »

[spork]

Maybe this should go elsewhere, but it does involve money . . .

I've purchased a 1920 house.  Mechanically its in good condition but it needs new interior paint.  Everywhere.  The dining room is somewhat of a painting conundrum.  The walls are a dark color.  Exposed ceiling beams, trim/molding/windows, and a baseboard cabinet are different shades of brown.  I decided to tear out the cabinet to enlarge the room and get rid of one of the browns. 

So now the floor needs refinishing, or at least a screen and coat (new poly), to erase traces of the cabinet.

But I should paint the walls before getting the floor done.

But before that I should get rid of brown #2 on the molding/trim/windows.  But I assume that requires stripping with noxious chemicals and/or time-intensive sanding.  I've never done that before. Would it be worth hiring someone? Could a pro do it in a couple days?  And if that's the case, should I get the 6 double-hung single pane windows replaced at the same time, since the wood on them is painted the same ugly color?

Then there's the large ugly rectangle on the wall where the cabinet used to be.  There is some sort of woven fibrous wallpaper (?) that is exposed.  It looks like it can be peeled off easily.  Someone painted the wall a few times after the cabinet was installed, and the edge of the paint is farther out from the wall than the fiber stuff.  Not very much.  Should I just sand the demarcation line after removing the fiber, and then paint?

[aristotelian]

But before that I should get rid of brown #2 on the molding/trim/windows.  But I assume that requires stripping with noxious chemicals and/or time-intensive sanding.  I've never done that before. Would it be worth hiring someone? Could a pro do it in a couple days?  And if that's the case, should I get the 6 double-hung single pane windows replaced at the same time, since the wood on them is painted the same ugly color?

Then there's the large ugly rectangle on the wall where the cabinet used to be.  There is some sort of woven fibrous wallpaper (?) that is exposed.  It looks like it can be peeled off easily.  Someone painted the wall a few times after the cabinet was installed, and the edge of the paint is farther out from the wall than the fiber stuff.  Not very much.  Should I just sand the demarcation line after removing the fiber, and then paint?

Congratulations on your new purchase! 

Regarding the molding, I don't know why you would bother with stripping since you are going to paint over it anyway.  I would just scrape down any chipping areas, then use a coat of primer before painting the new color. Minimize dust in case of lead by keeping the area moist and using a sanding "sponge" instead of paper to smooth things out.  (You don't have kids, right?)  I would strip it only if you want to get down to the original wood and then stain it, but that would be a huge pain to do well.

For what it's worth, I would think that it would be easier to simply replace the trim than to strip the old trim, so that would be another option.

If you are thinking about replacing the windows anyway, then definitely do it now before you get too far in your painting.  If not, like I said, I don't see any problem with just painting over the existing trim.

On the "demarcation line," yes, sanding it down, then painting with a coat of primer and a coat of the new color should look pretty good.  I don't see any reason why that wouldn't work.

I've never refinished hardwood floor, good luck on that!

[mended_drum]

Do the floor before the painting.  The dust raised by the refinishing will really annoy you if you've just painted.  And the sander can damage trim, even if you get a really professional team to do it for you.  Again, this will be far less annoying if you're going to paint anyway.

And before you go around stripping anything, remember that a house built in 1920 will have lead-based paint under the layers.  It's possible to strip that safely, but you should research it if you plan to do it yourself, especially if you're going to have small children around.

Tinted primer is your friend when painting over dark colors.

I have lovely trim in my house (1940), and the cost of replacing it would be far worse than the trouble it took to prime and paint, but I have to admit that I like to paint. 

[barred_owl]

Aristotelian and mended_drum said pretty much what I was going to say, but be aware that the work you're talking about can be exhausting (especially the floor!).  My vote would be to have professionals do the floor--and do that first.  The results will probably be better if they do the entire floor instead of just the bad patch, too.  If you're not going to strip the molding, it's probably an easy-enough DIY project, just depends on your taste (e.g., painted vs. original wood).

Best of luck, and congrats on the new old house, spork!

[spork]

Thank you for pointing out that the floor should be done before painting the walls.  I hadn't thought about the dust.  I will hire someone to do the floor -- it's not something I want to learn how to do myself.

I'm still not sure what to do about the molding and trim.  The exposed ceiling beams run into molding that is stained a dark brown.  Trim around doors and windows, molding along floors, and windows are painted a rusty brown.  Pulling all the trim and molding off and replacing it would be overkill I think.  So maybe I'll paint it all white and eventually get the windows replaced.  The trim in other rooms is white, though I'm not sure how well it will look with the stained molding at the ceiling.

The area where the cabinet used to be is 9' long and 3' high.  The fiber stuff appears to be in two layers -- fiber on top of a paper backing.  Both layers come easily, unless I'm peeling where there's no adhesive.  There's old drywall behind that rather than plaster.  Maybe the interior walls were refinished at some point in the past.

I removed an incredibly ugly chandelier in the dining room this morning.  Next job is to remove some kitchen cabinetry that blocks counter space.

[biomancer]

Spork, congrats on the house!  Aristotelian and Mended_Drum gave the same advice I would about the painted trim and the floors - if you're using new paint, paint over, and if you want stain, remove and replace unless the trim is unique and/or non-replaceable.  Floors first, professionals, agreed.  Painting all the trim the same color might be the path of least resistance.

As for getting the wallpaper (wallcloth?) off, your best bet is to get a "sharktooth" wallpaper piercer, and a steamer (I use my steam mop).  Pierce the wallpaper all over, then steam it, and either pull (carefully) or use a wide (~3-4") putty knife to scrape the wall covering off of the wall.  You may need to spackle and sand before you apply your chosen paint.  The reason for the steam is that if you have spots where the adhesive adhered particularly well, you could remove chunks of plaster - plus, the steam dissolves the glue and makes it much easier to pull huge sections off.

I'm doing this in my "library" (second living room), where the mostly incompetent previous owners wallpapered over existing wallpaper.  At least they didn't paint over the wallpaper, but the top layer is cheapo vinyl while the bottom layer is actually good quality, thick double-layer paper with a good adhesive.  I'm having to steam-and-scrape twice over each chunk of wall.

[spork]

I have determined through highly technical means (poking with a stick; works with hornets' nests too) that the exposed beams on the dining room ceiling are fake.  If they are just tacked up then they should be easy to remove, and that would leave the stained molding at the ceiling.  I could paint over that along with the other molding/trim for a uniform color, except for the windows (I suppose I could paint them too, but it might not be worth the effort).

The kitchen cabinet is in chunks on the sidewalk.  Took me three hours to remove, but I managed not to gouge the countertop, break the french door to the porch, or stab myself with a nail.

The kitchen has what appear to be baseboard hot water radiators along one wall.  This is odd given that the house has a gas-fired boiler with the standard upright steam radiators.  I need to find out where the pipes run.

[hegemony]

I have a house of similar vintage and have been through all these issues.  There is an overwhelming chance that your paint has lead in it.  It would really be better not to mess with that -- just paint over it.  Do not sand.  You will be breathing in lead.  It causes neurological damage.  And infertility in men.  Stay away from it.  Not to mention that sanding things is labor-intensive and annoying.

I don't know why you'd want to replace the windows if they're original to the house -- they're probably much more sturdily constructed than anything you can get now.  For weatherproofing, get a professional to install a second layer of window on the outside, without disturbing the original windows.  This is done all the time.  My experience with this is that you get what you pay for, and that it's worth getting the somewhat more expensive ones because they'll open and shut much more easily, which you'll want them to do.

[biomancer]

I have a house of similar vintage and have been through all these issues.  There is an overwhelming chance that your paint has lead in it.  It would really be better not to mess with that -- just paint over it.  Do not sand.  You will be breathing in lead.  It causes neurological damage.  And infertility in men.  Stay away from it.  Not to mention that sanding things is labor-intensive and annoying.

I don't know why you'd want to replace the windows if they're original to the house -- they're probably much more sturdily constructed than anything you can get now.  For weatherproofing, get a professional to install a second layer of window on the outside, without disturbing the original windows.  This is done all the time.  My experience with this is that you get what you pay for, and that it's worth getting the somewhat more expensive ones because they'll open and shut much more easily, which you'll want them to do.

Hegemony, I would totally agree with you provided the house is in a relatively warm climate.  I've lived (and currently live) in places where the weather often goes sub-zero Fahrenheit for a week or two (or more) each winter, and getting the new energy efficient windows does make a big difference there.   If he's got the kind of windows with multiple panes fitted into wood dividers (mullioned?), the temperature-induced shrinking and expansion may make the windows drafty in severe cold.  Heck, I'm starting to consider new windows as an upgrade to my current house, which was built in 1979.  The windows aren't drafty - they just could be better insulators.  It's not high on the priority list, though.

Now, on the lead paint, I'm in total agreement.  I actually enjoy sanding and woodworking, but sanding down lead paint is asking for trouble.

[aristotelian]

OK, I am trying to visualize the fake rafters and molding and not coming up with anything.  Spork, I think you are going to have to give us pictures! 

I'm not clear on why you are thinking about getting rid of the rafters.  You do not say that they are in poor condition.  Yes, they are another color, but they do not have to match everything else.  If the colors all balance right, they can be their own color.

[spork]

The windows may or may not be original to the house.  They are the traditional double-hung single pane, six on top/one on bottom, with storm windows.  I do not live in a location with warm winters, and the windows are loose and drafty.  Aesthetically, new replacement windows would look much better.

I know about lead paint; I grew up with it.  Supposedly the state does some kind of lead inspection service for homeowners so I'm going to get that set up, if it exists.

I would be happier with a smooth white ceiling than the fake exposed beams in the dining room.

[aandsdean]

The windows may or may not be original to the house.  They are the traditional double-hung single pane, six on top/one on bottom, with storm windows.  I do not live in a location with warm winters, and the windows are loose and drafty.  Aesthetically, new replacement windows would look much better.

I know about lead paint; I grew up with it.  Supposedly the state does some kind of lead inspection service for homeowners so I'm going to get that set up, if it exists.

I would be happier with a smooth white ceiling than the fake exposed beams in the dining room.

It all becomes clear....


(Just kidding.)

[southerntransplant]

Get rid of the single pane windows. If you move to double pane you will save a significant amount on your power bill.

We have one wall that is entirely windows floor to ceiling and we replaced the single pane aluminum frame windows with double pane vinyl frame. BIG difference.

[spork]

The windows may or may not be original to the house.  They are the traditional double-hung single pane, six on top/one on bottom, with storm windows.  I do not live in a location with warm winters, and the windows are loose and drafty.  Aesthetically, new replacement windows would look much better.

I know about lead paint; I grew up with it.  Supposedly the state does some kind of lead inspection service for homeowners so I'm going to get that set up, if it exists.

I would be happier with a smooth white ceiling than the fake exposed beams in the dining room.

It all becomes clear....


(Just kidding.)

It tastes like chocolate . . .


[Actually that's what I used to say to kids when I was in elementary school, to get them to lick the unpainted steel flagpole in the winter.]

[aristotelian]

I know about lead paint; I grew up with it.  Supposedly the state does some kind of lead inspection service for homeowners so I'm going to get that set up, if it exists.

When we got our house,I called one of the environmental inspection services about lead paint.  They said, "What year was your house built?"  I told them 1900 or before, and they said, "We don't have to come to your house - you have lead paint."