Young Archaeologists Help a Troubled Country Regain Its Memory

The trip to this town in southern Cambodia from Phnom Penh, the country's capital, begins with a ride in a four-wheel-drive truck, which passes bicyclists carrying woven baskets, dump trucks full of bananas, and dead pigs strapped onto the back fenders of motorbikes.

We drive through a weapons checkpoint, where soldiers are supposed to search for guns but are also known to collect small bribes and cigarettes, particularly from foreigners. We don't get stopped. Miriam Stark, an