When a Head Scarf Is More Than It Seems

Appearances in Turkey are deceptive. A visitor to Istanbul, the ancient metropolis that straddles the Bosphorus and marks the cultural and geographic divide between Europe and Asia, might be tempted to view the city's chic urbanites as evidence of the country's Western inclinations. Those inclinations have been emphasized by Turkey's long campaign for membership in the European Union.

But the overtly secular, bareheaded women who dominate the streets of Istanbul are not the norm in

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