October 12, 2009

When Seafood Chefs Bait and Switch, the Fish Detective Knows

When Seafood Chefs Bait and Switch, the Fish Detective Knows 1

Nova Southeastern U.

Using DNA tests, Mahmood S. Shivji (right) and his students snare chefs who try to pass off cheap fish as fine seafood.

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close When Seafood Chefs Bait and Switch, the Fish Detective Knows 1

Nova Southeastern U.

Using DNA tests, Mahmood S. Shivji (right) and his students snare chefs who try to pass off cheap fish as fine seafood.

By Ben Terris

Sometimes it takes a conservation biologist and his team of students to tell the difference between a grouper and a bumphead parrotfish. At least when it's covered in a tangy romesco sauce.

For years, unscrupulous chefs have known that they could secretly replace expensive seafood items like red snapper and grouper with cheaper products like tilapia, catfish, or croaker without any real fear of being caught.

Then Mahmood S. Shivji entered the picture.

Mr. Shivji, a

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