August 15, 2008
Warring Wines; 'You Want to Fight?'; Nurse Mary Jane in Santa Cruz
Think of the French geographer Jean-Robert Pitte as a peace negotiator who still enjoys a skirmish. His Bordeaux/Burgundy: A Vintage Rivalry (University of California Press) is a gesture toward reconciling fraternal enemies, he writes. But Pitte also intends to sharpen the critical spirit, not least about the French concept of terroir, a term used to convey the sense of place embodied in highly local wines. He explores the wines of two grands terroirs as products of human temperament and
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