Strange Days in Sulaimani

Strange Days in Sulaimani 1

Pat Kinsella for The Chronicle Review

It’s a rainy day in Iraq. I’m looking out the window of a popular cafe in Sulaimani, about half-full with students studying and businessmen clad in shiny suits, all of us escaping the wet cold outside and waiting on a hot Turkish coffee. Down the street is a sign for a newly opened barber shop: "Sweeney Todd—Iranian Best Barber." I’ll pass.

I teach at the American University of Iraq at Sulaimani, along with about 40 other faculty