August 3, 2001

Sketches of Hope on an Italian Hilltop

By CAROLYN J. MOONEY

There are things about this tiny hilltop village that you could only know if you stayed awhile.

You would see that there is a rhythm to the day, and a pattern to the flow of people who stroll its narrow streets -- streets that belonged first to the Etruscans, then to the Romans, then to medieval farmers, and now to a dwindling number of mostly elderly residents. You would hear the voices of tourists who gather around cafe tables set up in the dirt piazza each afternoon, but only the

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