Milk for the Masses

By MARA HVISTENDAHL

When China rang in the lunar new year last month, its fledgling dairy industry unveiled a new slogan: "Drink milk to celebrate the year of the cow!"

That may sound like wishful thinking for a country that breakfasts on fried dough and soy milk, but "the government wants to make sure that every child has a glass of milk a day," says Phillip S. Tong. The director of the Dairy Products Technology Center at California Polytechnic State University at San Luis Obispo, Mr. Tong has visited