November 5, 1999

In Seville, 300 Years of Empire Are Laid Bare in an Archive's Papers

By CAROLYN J. MOONEY

You could easily miss the General Archive of the Indies on a stroll through this city's historic district, mainly because there are so many more-obvious sights. Seville's cathedral -- the world's largest Gothic building -- stands next door to the archive. On the other side is the Alcazar, an old Moorish palace with sumptuous courtyards and gardens. Behind the archive lies the popular Barrio de Santa Cruz, whose narrow streets spread out for blocks, like a Spanish fan, folding occasionally