Gaga Over Gogol

In this hyperliterary city, where Dostoevsky tours steer visitors to the supposed site of Raskolnikov's savage crime, where the Nabokov Museum draws modernists to the émigré great's childhood home, and the Anna Akhmatova Museum enshrines Russia's luminous tragic poet of the 20th century, the most popular writer's statue honors none of those giants.

It is, rather, of Nikolai Vasilievich Gogol (1809-52), champion of the "little guy" Russian, treasured author of the

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