An Ecuadorian Tribe Welcomes Ecotourists -- on Its Terms


The history of European contact with indigenous groups in other parts of the world has few happy endings. What Alan Moorehead called "the fatal impact" of those encounters led to centuries of exploitation and, in almost every instance, to the destruction of the physical and cultural health of the native populations.

Thoughts of that unpleasant past intrude on a trek through the rain forest along the Capahuari River near the Kapawi Lodge here. You wonder whether the fate of the

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