A Small College in the Pacific Is at the Heart of a Linguistic Struggle

The College of Micronesia will help to shape its nation's cultural future

Clearing customs at Yap's airport is a two-step process. First, the uniformed immigration officer subjects your passport to poker-faced scrutiny. Then, the moment you turn away from the counter, there's the traditional welcome: a green garland placed around your neck by a bare-breasted, grass-skirted young woman and a young man wearing only an elaborate loincloth.

"Welcome to Yap," they say with a

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